Spaghetti bolognese doesn’t exist!

The first thing I cooked as a child was spaghetti bolognese – some may have considered fairy cakes or flapjacks more appropriate, but spag bol was my favourite thing, so that was that! Little did I know as I proudly presented my family with my lumpy, tomato-packed creation that in Italy there is technically no such thing!!

But it was in blissful ignorance of this that I chose to travel to Bologna, the home of pasta, to find out more about spaghetti bolognese, the ‘UK’s number one, favourite food’ (UKTV Food, 2009).

Bologna is known by Italians as ‘La Grassa’ (‘the fat one’), and on arriving it’s clear to see why. The streets are filled with bustling restaurants, coffee shops, market stalls, food shops, and appetising aromas. Unsurprisingly lunch, or more specifically that elusive spaghetti bolognese, leaps to mind.

I had read a small amount about a restaurant called Drogheria Della Rosa. Apparently specialising in traditional cuisine, it seemed perfect for my spag bol quest. My research had not prepared me for the very warm welcome of the charming and gregarious owner, Emanuele Addone. Emanuele was not born in Bologna, but is more than a little proud to call it home. I begin to see why, as I am ushered with gusto to my curbside table with a glass of crisp, dry Prosecco, and some local buffalo mozzarella and cold meats – I too could happily live like this!

Emanuele’s enthusiasm for the food of Bologna (and his insistence that it is ‘quality, not quantity’ that is of critical importance) led to a procession of several, delectable, small courses, all interspersed with handshakes, hellos, and ciaos from passing folk. Like a small village, everyone seems to know everyone else here. Emanuele explains that once you come to Bologna you stay – “it’s like a family.”

Chef Francesco Guerra and his assistant Gigi Grosso produced Piadina (a flat, fried bread) served with Scacquerone – a fresh, clean-tasting local cow’s milk cheese; a small dish of traditional tortellini (filled mini pasta parcels) served traditionally in broth; and a delicate, three cheese-filled parcel of pasta topped with sweet-tasting courgette flowers.

Shortly afterwards, the Holy Grail arrived; the moment I had been waiting for – pasta with bolognese ragù. I was instructed to eat the dish ‘immediately, without taking a photo’, or it would get cold and be ruined! I was too scared to refuse and tucked in immediately. But then came the bombshell. “You know, spaghetti bolognese doesn’t exist,” said Emanuele. My culinary world was shaken upside down! As the shock subsided, aided by a glass of local Colli Bolognesi Sangiovese, it materialised that spaghetti is an industrial creation, and originally all pasta was made, rolled, and cut only by hand. So it makes sense that tagliatelle would be the only possible original accompaniment to bolognese or meat ragù.

My simple, fabulously al dente egg tagliatelle with its surprisingly light, meat ragù was just perfect. What was most apparent was that there was no obvious presence of tomato or vegetable matter in the ragù, and certainly not a great deal of liquid sauce. Just delicate nuggets of tender beef, cooked until the tiny, finely diced pieces of soffritto (onion, carrot and celery) had almost completely disintegrated, and flavoured with just a touch of tomato paste says Emanuele, but “never, ever, ever, tomatoes from a tin.” So now we know!

It was with some relief at this point that I was told that Bologna was best seen on foot. Post lunch, a good walk was exactly what I needed. Weaving my way through the tiny cobbled streets was a delight. Past small Enoteca such as Antica Drogheria Calzolari, and amazing traditional delis such as A.F. Tamburini and Salumeria Simoni, as well as market stalls brimming with fresh produce in Via’s Clavature and Drapperie. The cafés and bars of the main piazzas and surrounding streets were pleasantly packed with people, young and old, chatting and socialising, and the hubbub was quite infectious.

There is also a distinct sense of culture in Bologna, due in part to its university (it was in fact the site of Europe’s first university), and beautiful Medieval architecture, but also illustrated by the many artisan craft and design shops, street-side art exhibitions, music events and festivals (Bologna is a UNESCO city of music), and other events running throughout the year.

There’s plenty to see, do, and eat in this wonderful city, and the friendly locals seem more than happy to share it. I will definitely be returning to Bologna, sooner rather than later, if only to taste more tagliatelle bolognese!

For more photos from my trip click here.

Address Book:

For more information on English speaking guides, itineraries, events, bookings, and enquiries – www.bolognaturismo.info

Drogheria Della Rosa, Via Cartoleria 10, +39 (0) 51 222 529, open Monday to Sunday 12.30–3pm, and 8–11pm. Booking recommended.

Antica Drogheria Calzolari, Via G. Petroni 9

A.F. Tamburini, Via Drapperie 2

Salumeria Simoni, Via Drapperie 5/2a