Rich, dark & Italian

After an early start and a relatively easy drive out of Bologna in a north-easterly direction, I found myself on the outskirts of the medieval city of Modena.

Modena itself has quite a distinct identity from Bologna. It is home to Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Maserati cars and has a vast collection of art in its galleries. It is also famed for its stunning architecture, in particular its cathedral, which is considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque building in the whole of Italy.

But for now, the delights of the city would have to wait. I was keen to find the darkest, richest balsamic vinegar I could find, so I headed off into the surrounding countryside, south of the city, to track it down.

The area is gloriously attractive in a picture-postcard Italian way, with fields of vines, swaying rosy-red poppies, and roads flanked by rows of cypress and poplar trees.

In a tiny, country hamlet called Nonantola, I found not just the home and tavern of the Pedroni family, L’Osteria Rubbiara, but also their amazing vinegar cellars.

I was welcomed by the owner Italo, who has lived and worked on the family estate all his life, continuing the traditions of his forefathers to complete a reign of over 147 years.

Italo wasted no time in sharing his enthusiasm for his vinegar, and also his wine – the two generally go hand in hand in the region as they both use the same grape varieties, Trebbiano and Lambrusco. Yes, I did say Lambrusco!

To make decent balsamic is quite a commitment. Crushed grapes are cooked, skin and all, in an open vat for several hours to allow the mixture to evaporate and concentrate. A ‘family’ of five barrels of decreasing size is then required. These barrels should be wooden – usually oak, cherry, chestnut, mulberry, or juniper. Like winemaking, each will impart its own unique character on the finished product. These horizontal barrels are filled with the cooked grape must, and left to evaporate over the course of the year.

Italo tells me, with a twinkle in his eye, that his finest barrels of vinegar are kept above his bedroom! In actual fact this is more a necessity than an example of Italian charm! The barrels have to be kept in the roof (despite being called ‘vinegar cellars’) to benefit from the routine changes of temperature throughout the year. After the first year each barrel is topped up with more vinegar from its bigger neighbour, with the largest of the barrels being topped up with grape must from the new harvest. For the product to be called ‘aged balsamic di Modena’ this process must continue for a minimum of 12 years, or in the case of some of Italo’s stock, for over 100 years!

I am intrigued about the use of this precious commodity, and ask Italo how he uses it. “We use it every day. Sometimes even as medicine when we’re ill, as a pick-me-up.” It turns out that most balsamic vinegar these days is blended with simple wine vinegar and has sugar or colour added, and this applies to many expensive ones too. This isn’t ‘true balsamic’ which should have nothing at all added to it – “just local grapes, the Modena weather, and time.”

Interestingly I’m told that balsamic is rarely, if ever, used on salads, and whilst young balsamic di Modena can be used for sauces and cooking, Italo and other Modena locals prefer the more expensive 25+ year old for serving with food as a condiment, often only very sparingly in small drops.

After lunch (which was prepared by Mrs Pedroni, and included rich home-made ice cream drizzled liberally with 25-year-old balsamic), Italo invited me to try his vinegars together in order to make a comparison – minimum ages 12, 25, and 100 years. Each becomes increasingly thick, mellow and intense as the vinegars get older. On asking, Italo has a clear favourite. “The hundred year old of course – it’s an aphrodisiac!”

I was sad to leave Italo and his family, but with more of the beautiful, sun-dappled, Emilia-Romagna countryside to explore, it was time to move on.

Address book:

To enjoy a free tour of the Pedroni family vinegar cellars in Italian, and/or book a table for lunch you will need to call in advance. +39 (0) 59 549 019 www.aceitapedroni.it

For information on Modena, or help with bookings, English speaking guides, or other assistance contact: www.modenatur.it +39 (0) 59 220022